Cantabria is a region located on the central Cantabrian coast, in the north of Spain. It is framed on the East by the Basque country and on the West by Asturias, with the Castilian provinces of Leon, Palencia and Burgos to the South.
Cantabria’s mountainous and coastal geography is unique, with over 40% of the total surface at above 700m altitude, and full of dramatic valleys, steep mountainsides, seaside cliffs and beaches. Due to its landscape, Cantabria benefits from two distinct climates: maritime nearer the coast, and mediterranean in the interior. Both enjoy moderate temperatures and high precipitation, though the mediterranean climate experiences more exaggerated temperature fluctuations. The region’s geographical features make it a natural home for grape growing and wine production.
While the first mention of vines in the region can be traced back to the 9th century, the popularity of winemaking in the region has waxed and waned through the years. Since the year 2000 we’ve seen a steady rise in the number of wineries releasing bottles for commercial distribution.
Over the last two decades, Cantabrian winemakers have worked to produce quality wines that are now comparable to other Spanish regions. Local producers have benefited from the warming effects of climate change, and the Cantabrian government is supporting the industry to capitalise on its growing potential.
Currently, the winemaking landscape is made up of approximately twenty small bodegas, which combined produce over fifty different wines. Although they vary in size and commercial reach, Cantabrian wineries could still be described as small and local, selling mostly to regional hospitality establishments, gourmet shops, and direct to consumers online.
Although there are no Protected Denominations of Origin (PDO) in Cantabria, the wines from this area have regulations in place that are intended to assure the quality of the wine production, and to solidify the reputation of the region’s winemaking history.
Vino de la Tierra
“IGP Vino de la Tierra” is a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI), a category of wine production that is regulated by the European Union, but has slightly more relaxed requirements than the more widely known PDO category.
“IGP Vino de la Tierra” can be thought of as equivalent to the French “Vin de Pays” (VdP), which is superior to table wine, because these wines have a defined, recognizable character.
In order to meet the PGI requirements, 85% of the grapes used must come from within the PGI region, and the wine must be made there too. Cantabrian wines are sourced from two dominant PGI regions, both of which were created in 2005: “Vino de la Tierra Costa de Cantabria” and “Vino de la Tierra de Liébana”.
Both PGI regions apply the following technical production requirements for their wines:
- Alcohol volume must be a minimum of 10% for red wines and 9.5% for white wines
- Total acidity (gr/l tartaric acid) must be between 5 and 8.5 gr/l in red wines and between 5 and 10 gr/l in white wines
- Volatile acidity (gr/l acetic acid) must not be above 0.8 gr/l
- Sulfites must not exceed 120 mg/l in red wines and 150 mg/l in white wines
- Residual sugar must not exceed 5 gr/l
Despite these similarities, the climatic differences between the coast and the interior, as well as the variation in grapes used, mean each region produces distinct wines full of character.
Vino de la Tierra Costa de Cantabria
Vino de la Tierra Costa de Cantabria refers to the wines produced from the Cantabrian coast to the inner valleys that experience the impact of the Atlantic climate, up to an elevation of 600 metres. Many vineyards are planted on north-facing hillsides close to the capital city of Santander, with stunning views of the sea. The wines made here are characterised by a unique freshness and salinity granted by the Cantabria sea’s influence.
The PGI Vino de la Tierra Costa de Cantabria permits the use of the following grapes:
White Grapes:
- Albariño
- Chardonnay
- Godello
- Ondarribi Zuri
- Riesling
- Gewürztraminer
- Treixadura
Red Grapes:
- Ondarribi Beltza
Although the region permits the use both white and red grapes, the wines made here are mostly fresh and light white wines, with moderate alcohol content, and pronounced but balanced acidity. They are mostly designed to be drunk young, though some styles can mature for 3-5 years in bottle.
While Albariño is the leading grape of choice, local winemakers have also made refreshing wines using Gewürztraminer and Riesling, as well as some traditional north- Atlantic styles using Godello and Treixadura. In recent years, some producers have even ventured into sparkling wine production, taking advantage of the cool Atlantic influence that creates high-acidity wines, and tapping into the market demand for Bruts, which have been received very positively.
Wines with PGI Vino de la Tierra Costa de Cantabria:
- Mar de Fondo
- Tussío
- Yenda Riesling
- Yenda Albariño
- Yenda Spicata
- Yenda Riesling Barrica
- Yenda Godello
- Yenda Albariño – Godello
- Maldita la Hora Brut Nature
- Viñamar Godello
- Viñamar Albariño
- Palacio de Treto
- Casona Micaela
- Micaela seleccion de añada
- Ribera del Ason
- Cantabricus
- Cantabricus Brut
- Señorío del Pas lías
- Hortanza Albariño Riesling
- Hortanza Gewürztraminer Riesling
- Hortanza Brut
Photo by Cantabrian Kitchen
Vino de la Tierra de Liébana
Vinos de la Tierra de Liébana are produced in the south-western interior part of the province, in a mountainous area bordering Castille. It’s a unique terroir with a mediterranean climate that is largely sheltered from the high precipitation that is common in the north of Spain. The PGI rules mean that only wine made in the following areas can be considered Vinos de la Tierra de Liébana: Potes, Pesaguero, Cabezón de Liébana, Camaleño, Cillorigo de Liébana and Vega de Liébana.
This region is rich with history and has been recognised as one of the most beautiful rural areas in Spain on multiple occasions. This PGI permits the use of the following grapes:
Red Grapes
- Mencía
- Tempranillo
- Garnacha
- Graciano
- Syrah
- Cabernet Sauvignon
White Grapes
- Palomino
- Chardonnay
- Godello
- Gewürztraminer
While both red and white styles are permitted here, it’s the red wines made with Mencía, Tempranillo and Garnacha Tinta that dominate. These red wines are predominantly youthful in style, with medium body, tannins and acidity compared to other Spanish wines like Rioja or Ribera.
Wines with PGI Vino de la Tierra de Liébana:
- Querida Maria
- Querido Toribio
- Vino Juntos
- Angel Moreno
- Lusía
Producto de Montaña
Some wines made in Cantabria may also carry the quality marker of “Producto de Montaña”. This category was created to classify and differentiate agricultural products that benefit from mountain features like unique soils or high altitude diurnal range. It is recognized and regulated by the European Union the same way PDO or IGP are.
The following wines are considered Producto de Montaña:
- Picos de Cabariezo Finca Morillas
- Picos de Cabariezo Selección
Wines that don’t have a Geographic Indicator
Some wineries do not meet the regulatory standards to be part of a PGI, and others choose not to join because they want the freedom to make wines with grapes like Sauvignon Blanc or Verdejo, which aren’t permitted under the PGI regulatory umbrella.
The following wines are produced in Cantabria and are not currently linked to any regulatory body:
- Faro del Norte Tinto Crianza
- Faro del Norte Blanco Fermentado en Barrica
- Faro del Norte sobre Lias
- El Botón Rufete
- Tressot Petit Verdot
- Behetría de Cieza
- La Ilda
- La Torca
- El Hito
- El ídolo
- Pico Jaro Blanco
- Pico Jaro Cosechero
- Pico Jaro Tinto
- Pico Jaro SemiDulce
- La viga Mencia Tinto
- Viña Carmina Godello
- Viña Carmina Albariño
- Tejea Albariño y Riesling
- Viña de Sopico
- Los Chicucos
